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 Bearded Dragons
(Phrynosoma
vitticeps)
Bearded dragons are native to Australia and
New Zealand. However, Australia has very
strict export laws, so bearded dragons now
found in the U.S. are all descendants of the
original exported reptiles. Many beautiful
“color morphs” are now available in dazzling
shades of orange, yellow, red, rust, pastel,
and even white, for the dedicated
enthusiast.
Despite their fierce appearance, bearded
dragons are among the most gentle, amenable
reptiles on earth. They make excellent
first-time pets for novices, and are prized
by experienced handlers for their sweet
temperament.
Bearded dragons are omnivores, avidly
hunting insects and small vertebrates. They
also forage for soft greens, fruits, and
flowers. Wild bearded dragons live in rocky
semi-desert regions and in dry open
woodlands. They like to bask on rocks and
branches in the morning and evening, but
spend the hottest part of the day in
underground burrows.
Bearded dragons are very social animals,
which makes them a favorite among
reptile-lovers. Unlike many lizards which
require considerable time and effort to
hand-tame, bearded dragons adapt quickly to
human interaction, and appear to become
genuinely fond of their human keepers.
If buying a baby beardie, make sure it is at
least 5" from nose to tail-tip, and well
developed. Skinny beardies may be unhealthy,
and too fragile to survive. Make sure your
beardie is alert, and responsive to your
touch. A beardie that lays limply in its
tank or your hand should be avoided. It may
be suffering from internal parasites,
dehydration, or a number of other
life-threatening problems.
Housing
Bearded dragons only grow to about 24" in
length, but they need large enclosures. Male
“beardies” can be territorial toward other
males, and all adult beardies will eat
smaller lizards--so hatchlings should never
be housed with juveniles or adults.
Hatchlings will usually tolerate the
presence of other hatchlings--but past 3
months of age, should always be separated
into their own tanks.
Beardie tanks should be large, and
well-ventilated. Never forget to use a
lid...bearded dragons are curious, and like
to explore every nook and cranny of their
environment. Web cages make excellent
enclosures; just make sure to keep a heat
lamp perched nearby, to provide sufficient
heat. Reptiles that get too cold cannot
digest their food properly, and will get
sick.
In the wild, beardies live in sandy desert
areas. A 50/50 mix of playground sand and
calcium sand can be used for substrate in an
adult’s cage (never in a baby’s or
juvenile’s), but beardies sometimes
accidentally eat bits of sand when snatching
a cricket. So beware of intestinal impaction
problems. Aquarium gravel, utility
carpeting, and slab rock all make good
substrates. Be sure to add some non-prickly
cacti, a decorative cave or two, and plenty
of branches for your bearded to bask on.
Since it requires both basking and hiding
areas, your beardie will appreciate these
attractive, easy-to-maintain additions to
its tank.
Heat and Light
Though bearded dragons do live in desert
regions, like all sensible creatures, they
prefer to nap their days away in cool caves
or burrows. Ambient tank temperatures should
range from 85º - 90º during the daytime,
with a basking area that ranges between 100º
- 110º. At night, temperatures should drop
no lower than the low-80s. Use an under-tank
heating pad to warm the substrate, or a
basking lamp over one side of the tank, to
provide the proper range of temperatures.
Sunlight is vitally important to bearded
dragons. If you can't expose them to direct
sunlight on a daily basis, make sure that
your basking lamp uses a UVB-producing
florescent bulb. Incandescent lights do not
provide the full spectrum required for
calcium metabolism by reptiles. Beardies
deprived of UVB will get sick and die.
(Remember to change out your UVB bulbs every
3 months or so, as they lose their potency
over time.)
Water
Bearded dragons enjoy an occasional shower
or light misting with water; this helps keep
their skin moist, so they can shed more
easily. Always provide fresh drinking water
in a shallow bowl or water fountain.
Hatchlings may drown if they can't scramble
out of their bowl, and so should be misted
2-3 times every day. You may want to
consider draping a branch of that decorative
ivy into the water; this allows young
beardies to drink safely, and also allows
any crickets that land in the water bowl to
climb out again without drowning.
Food
Baby bearded dragons must be fed very small
prey! Babies are voracious, eating 50-60
crickets PER DAY, and will often try to
consume crickets that are too large for
their mouths and stomachs. Serious physical
injury and even death can result. Crickets
should never be larger than the space
between your beardie’s eyes. You may find it
cost-effective to bulk-order crickets from
an insect breeder such as Armstrong Crickets
(www.armstrongcricket.com). Baby beardies
usually eat 2-week old crickets, while
adults will eat larger crickets, superworms,
phoenix worms, and waxworms for variety.
Bearded dragons are omnivorous, and need
vegetables and fruits along with a wide
variety of insects. Favorite plant foods may
include shredded or torn vegetables such as
mustard greens, dandelion greens, collard
greens, green beans, squash, carrots,
escarole, parsley, raspberries, mango, and
cantaloupe. Remember that each beardie has
its own individual tastes--so what one
dragon adores, another may ignore entirely.
Baby beardies may not eat much “salad,” but
it should always be offered to them.
Spraying it with water will encourage babies
to drink (and eat). Dropping crickets on
their salad will also encourage them to eat.
Older beardies require more salad, and as
they age, this should become their primary
diet, with insects becoming the supplement
rather than the main course.
Always make sure to “gut load” your crickets
and other insects by feeding them a
high-calcium insect food. Also you should
dust your crickets with a high-calcium
supplement such as RepCal at least 4 times a
week before feeding them to your beardies.
Handling
Bearded dragons tend to be very placid and
trusting. While this makes them excellent
pets, they may not hold onto your hand as
well as other reptiles. Scoop up your dragon
gently, with your hand under its belly.
Always support its entire body, but don't
hold it tightly. Rather, let it rest in your
palm, and curl your fingers gently over its
back. Beardies often enjoy riding on a
shoulder, and with a little practice, will
accept a wide-bodied leather leash. This
will allow you to take it along on your
daily travels.
Reproduction
Bearded dragons reach sexual maturity
between one and two years of age. During the
breeding season, beards of the mature males
may turn black. (This is often one of the
only ways to determine whether you have a
male or female.) Older females may dig
shallow nests in sandy soil, and lay up to
16 eggs in the early summer. Bearded dragons
reproduce easily in captivity, which makes
them even more popular among lizard
enthusiasts. But males and females should
not be kept in the same enclosure
year-round, as beardies do not usually cope
well in confined surroundings with other
beardies.
With proper care and attention, your bearded
dragon will be the easiest, most
affectionate reptile you could ever hope to
own.
Sources:
There are many excellent chat forums
available for anyone seeking more
information, or immediately answers to
questions. The best one this author
has found is located at
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/pogona/
Hope to see you there soon! |
