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 Boa Constrictor
(Boa Constrictor imperator)
BASIC FACTS
Boa Constrictors (sometimes called
Red-Tailed Boas) are not for everyone. They
grow up to ten feet in length, and can weigh
over 50 pounds. Boas commonly live up to 30
years. Owning a big snake is a major,
long-term commitment and responsibility.
Never buy one on impulse--you may regret it
later.
Boa Constrictors are instinctive live-prey
hunters, but this can make them aggressive.
To keep your snake docile, kill its prey
before feeding time. Young Boas will eat
baby rats, but as they grow, their appetite
will increase. By the time your Boa is two
years old, be prepared to feed it
freshly-killed adult rabbits or chickens
every two weeks. (Note: Never feed your Boa
raw chicken pieces bought in a grocery
store. Uncooked raw chicken can carry
salmonella, which is fatal to Boas. Always
buy your chickens directly from clean,
reputable hatcheries.)
Boas are primarily active at dawn and dusk.
They prefer high heat and humidity, and will
go dormant for weeks at a time if the
temperature is too low for their taste.
Though they climb trees on occasion, they
prefer to live on the ground.
Baby Boas grow extremely quickly, up to 6
feet during their first year, and another
3-4 feet during their second year. After
that, they grow much more slowly, although
they will continue to grow slightly
throughout their entire lives.
GETTING STARTED
All snakes are escape artists. Boas
are especially powerful, and can easily
break out of a tank sealed with a board and
a couple of bricks. So make sure your tank
is big enough, and strong enough, to keep
your Boa from escaping. A good starter tank
for a hatchling is a 20 gallon tank with a
latching metal lid. Eventually you will need
to build your own enclosure out of wood and
glass or plexiglass, or purchase a tank
specially made for large reptiles. Be
prepared--big snakes need lots of room, not
the least of which is an enclosure big
enough for you to get in and clean it out!
Do not use pine, cedar, or aspen shavings in
your Boa’s tank unless you plan to feed it
elsewhere. These fine wood shavings can
become lodged in the Boa’s mouth while
eating, causing respiratory and other
problems. Use a larger bark such as cypress
or fir bark, or utility mats which can
easily be removed and cleaned.
Boas often like to hide during the daytime.
Provide your Boa with a sturdy half-log, or
an empty cardboard box with an access
doorway cut into one end. An opaque
Tupperware container can also be used. If
you use rocks and bricks to construct a
cave, be sure to affix them firmly in place.
Boas are very strong, and can easily topple
such a structure when moving about. When the
rocks tumble on the snake, severe injuries
may result. Since many Boas also enjoy
hanging out on branches, provide clean
branches big enough to support the Boa's
weight.
Boas are usually found throughout South
America, so they prefer heat and humidity. A
comfortable daytime temperature range is
from 82 - 90o. At night, the ambient air
temperature should not drop down lower than
78 - 85o. Special reptile heating pads that
are manufactured to maintain a temperature
about 20o higher than the air temperature
may be used inside the enclosure. There are
also adhesive pads that can be stuck to the
underside of a glass enclosure. Heating pads
made for people, available at all drug
stores, are also available; these have
built-in high-medium-low switches and can be
used under a glass enclosure.
All snakes are susceptible to thermal burns.
For this reason, do not use a hot rock in
your Boa’s tank. Once your snake has grown
quite large, you may wish to invest in a pig
blanket, a large rigid pad for which you can
buy a thermostat to better control the
temperature.
No special lighting is needed. You may use a
full-spectrum light or low wattage
incandescent bulb in the enclosure during
the day, but snakes--having evolved to
living underground--have no need for regular
full-spectrum/UV lighting. If you do use
such a light in the tank, make sure the
snake cannot get into direct contact with
the light bulbs, or burrow itself into the
casing of the fluorescent hood.
Don’t be too concerned if your baby Boa
doesn’t eat for the first week or two. Allow
it time to acclimate to its new home. It
will eat when it’s hungry. Feed it a
full-sized killed mouse or baby rat.
Remember not to feed your Boa anything wider
than the widest part of its body. Boas will
eagerly eat prey that is too large, then
regurgitate that prey a few days later. This
is very stressful for the snake, and not a
pretty sight. So never overfeed your snake.
It will grow big fast enough without
overfeeding.
Always keep a bowl of fresh water in your
Boa’s tank. Snakes not only drink water,
they often soak (and defecate) in it. Change
your Boa’s water regularly, especially if
it’s dirty.
When your Boa’s eyes turn a milky blue and
its skin becomes dull, it is about to shed
its skin. Boas have poor eyesight, and their
vision becomes worse at this time. Provide
your Boa with a large bowl of warm water to
soak in; this will help it shed cleanly and
easily. Otherwise, leave your Boa alone
until it’s skin has been shed. It may
mistake your hand for a tasty snack, and
strike without intending to cause you harm.
After your new Boa has settled into its new
home, begin gently picking it up and
handling it. Don’t worry if it lashes its
tail or hisses; you’re a hundred times
bigger than it is, and it’s quite reasonably
afraid of you. Be patient and persistent.
Eventually it will realize that you aren’t a
threat, and it will relax in your presence.
At that point, you can start carrying it
around the house with you. However, never
leave it untended. Snakes love to crawl into
seat cushions or behind furniture, and can
easily escape.
If your snake wraps around your arm or neck,
unwind it by gently grasping its tail and
unwrapping it. If you start at its head, you
will find that your snake is stronger (or at
least more stubborn) than you are!
WHOA, GODZILLA!
Even if your adult Boa is fully tamed, never
forget that it is bigger and stronger than
you are! It may not mean to harm you, but
its very size and weight can make it
potentially dangerous. So-called “snake
attacks” are rare, but highly publicized by
the media for their shock value. In nearly
every case, the fault is not the snake’s,
but its handler’s. Here are some
common-sense rules to make sure both you and
your snake remain safe:
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Never handle a large snake (over six
feet long) alone. Accidents can happen
to even the most experienced
handler--and if you are alone, no one
can help you. The results can be tragic.
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Never allow the scent of a prey animal
to get on or near you when handling a
large snake. If you smell like your
Boa’s favorite food, it may mistake you
for a meal, and attack you without
meaning to cause you harm.
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Never allow a large snake to roam free
in any room occupied by humans. Imagine
falling asleep on the couch just about
the time your Boa gets hungry. Better
yet--don’t!
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Always keep your large snake in a
securely locked, escape-proof enclosure,
accessible only by you. Your best friend
may not realize the danger of handling a
10-foot snake. Or it could break free,
and attack a total stranger because it’s
hungry or frightened. Don’t take the
chance! Keep its cage locked, and never
let anyone else in the enclosure without
your immediate supervision.
Following these simple rules can ensure that
you and your Boa enjoy a safe, happy
lifelong friendship!
HELPFUL RESOURCES:
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The General Care and Maintenance of
Red-Tailed Boas, by Philippe de
Vosjoli. 1990. Advanced Vivarium
Systems, Lakeside CA.
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The Completely Illustrated Atlas of
Reptiles and Amphibians, by Obst,
Richter and Jacob. 1988. TFH
Publications, Inc. Neptune City, NJ.
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Snakes of the World, by Scott
Weidensaul. 1991. Chartwell Books,
Seacacus, NJ.
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Living Snakes of the World, John
M. Mehrtens. 1987. Sterling Publishing
Co. New York.
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