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 Chinese
Water
Dragons
(Physignathus
cocincinus)
Water dragons are native to the Southeast
Asian mainland and Indo-Australian
archipelago. Most imports arrive from
Thailand or southern China. Males
typically reach 3 feet; females are somewhat
smaller. Males develop larger heads, jowls
and crest on the back of the neck, and their
femoral pores are somewhat larger than on
the female.
Captive Environment
You will need a
large enclosure, one larger than most people
think will be needed by a lizard of this
size. The reason most water dragons are
missing much of their faces, rubbed off from
the snout back past the front teeth, is that
water dragons will literally rub their flesh
off and break their jaw bones trying to get
out of a too-small enclosure. They need
space at least 2x their total length - so
you are talking a minimum of 6' long (side
to side), at least 2 - 3' deep, and 4 - 6'
high to do it right.
Water dragons can be kept together, with one
to three males in a room-sized enclosure.
Some females can be domineering, and may not
want any other females around...others can
co-habit with 3 - 4 females. You must
monitor them all the time to ensure that all
are feeding and basking properly throughout
the year. If any aren't, you are most likely
seeing the results of intimidation, and will
need to increase the number of basking and
feeding areas, and/or increase enclosure
size, or separate them.
Water dragons are semi-arboreal, but also
need enough water to submerge and swim
comfortably in, as well as branches for
climbing, and plenty of ground area for
roosting and feeding. They also need the
appropriate thermal gradients, photoperiods,
and a UVB light.
Substrate
The best substrate is a mixture of 2/3 peat
soil + 1/3 clean sand, with areas of bark.
Cypress mulch or utility carpet mats can
also be used. Water dragons have very
active digestive systems, so be prepared for
lots of messy poop if they don't go in their
water.
Branches should be placed on the diagonal
for climbing, and horizontal for roosting.
Suggestions for suitable live plants include
dragon plants (Dracaena), pothos (Scindapsus
aureus), Ficus benjamina trees,
Monstera deliciosa (philodendron),
and staghorn ferns. Plants will need to be
replaced as they are shredded by claws or
eaten.
Temperature
Water dragons need it warm. They
require temps of 84 - 88º F during the
daytime, with a drop to 75 - 80º F at night.
Also they must have a basking area going up
to 90º F during the day, at one side of
tank. Use thermometers! And avoid
dangerous hot rocks--use overhead basking
lights and an undertank heat pad, or place a
heating pad under the indoor/outdoor
carpeting substrate.
UVB Lighting
Water dragons must have direct sun or a
suitable UVB-producing fluorescent (Vitalite
by Durotest or Zoo Med's Iguana or Reptile
lights are best). "Plant grow" lights do not
produce UVB, and most so-called 'full
spectrum" lights do not, either. Proper heat
lamps must produce wavelengths in the
290-320 nm range.
Water
Fresh, clean water must be available at all
times for full body immersions up to at
least 1/2 the water dragon's height. Since
they frequently use their water bowls as
toilets, their bowls must be cleaned and
disinfected daily. If they dive into
their water from a shelf or branch, you need
to make the tub deeper so they do not injure
themselves.
Feeding
Hatchlings and Juveniles:
Feed your hatchlings and juveniles 2-3 week
old crickets which have been previously
"gut-loaded" (e.g., not right from pet
store). Also offer finely chopped
vegetables and fruits. As the dragons grow,
offer only slightly bigger crickets, and add
in some mealworms and pinkie mice, and
occasionally a waxworm for a treat. Smaller
food items are more nutritious, and more
efficiently digested, than fewer bigger
items. Feed every 2 days--or oftener if they
look hungry.
Adults:
Feed your adult water dragons small mice,
4-week old (large) crickets, and kingworms (Zoophoba),
as well as plant matter. Feed every 2 - 3
days, or oftener if they look hungry. Also
feed your water dragon plant matter, such as
greens and fruits, for variety.
Sources
- De
Vosjoli, P. 1992. The General Care and
Maintenance of Water Dragons, Sailfin
Lizards and Basilisks. Advanced Vivarium
Systems, Lakeside CA
- EMBL
Reptile Database:
Agamidae
- Kaplan,
Melissa. 1997. Reptile Rehabilitation.
In, The Biology Husbandry, and Health
Care of Reptiles. Lowell Ackerman, DVM,
ed. Vol. III, pp. 898-941. TFH
Publishing, Neptune City, NJ
- Lane,
TJ and Mader DR. 1996. Parasitology. In,
Reptile Medicine and Surgery. D.R. Mader,
editor. WB Saunders, NY
- Obst,
Fritz et al. 1988. The Completely
Illustrated Atlas of Reptiles and
Amphibians for the Terrarium. TFH
Publishing, Neptune City, NJ
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